Installation Guides

Step 1: Preparation & Cleaning

Clean the headlight housing, lens, and surrounding areas with a 2:1 water-to-IPA mixture or Rapid Prep. Test adhesion with masking tape — if it sticks, the surface is ready.

Step 2: Spray & Lubricate

Spray Rapid Tac liberally onto the light. This allows repositioning during application. Include gaskets and trim around the lights.

Step 3: Remove Liner

Mist your fingers and spray Rapid Tac on the tint. Carefully lift a corner and peel the liner. Spray both sides to prevent sticking to itself.

Step 4: Align & Apply

Apply the wet adhesive side to the lens. Reposition to align to edges. Film may appear short — this is normal before heating.

Step 5–6: Spray & Squeegee

Spray outside of film again. For flat areas: squeegee with smooth sweeping motions. For curved lights: apply heat from center outward in a spiral, stretching film 2–5%.

Step 7–8: Heat & Trim

Use a heat gun to shrink and cure the film. Keep the gun moving. Trim excess with a razor blade and tuck edges for a carwash-safe finish.

Step 9–10: Cure & Finish

Allow to dry 30+ minutes. Some fogginess is normal and clears within days. After 24 hrs, pop small bubbles with a pin. Polish with Rapid Clear. Avoid car washes for 48 hrs.

Ideal temperature: 70°–80°F. Turn on your lights to warm the surface. Do not apply in rain or high humidity.

Step 1: Open & Dry Fit

Carefully open the plastic tube. Dry-fit tints to confirm correct placement before applying.

"Find the tint that corresponds to the light you're going to be smoking first."

Step 2: Clean & Prepare

Clean the light and surrounding area. Static from removing the liner attracts dust — clean thoroughly.

Step 3–4: Spray & Apply

Apply Rapid Tac as a slip solution. Tack film to one edge and work toward the opposite side. Air-egress technology allows repositioning without losing adhesive power.

"If you do get a wrinkle simply lift the film. Apply a little heat and the wrinkles should come out."

Step 5–7: Stretch, Heat & Trim

Tuck small stretched edges into the housing. Use a heat gun to soften film for complex shapes. Trim excess with a hobby knife. Pop remaining bubbles after 24 hours with a pin.

Step 1: Surface Preparation

Your install is only as good as your surface prep. Wash vehicle thoroughly, apply degreaser, use a clay bar for contamination removal, and perform the "squeaky finger" test. If it squeaks, it's clean.

Steps 2–4: Measure & Cut

Measure the panel. Add 2–3 inches on all sides for tucking. Lay film on the area to verify coverage before cutting. Cut roughly to size — you'll trim precisely after application.

Steps 5–7: Apply & Squeegee

Have a helper hold one end of the liner while you tack the film to the panel. Work from center outward with a squeegee. Use a heat gun on curves and complex shapes to stretch and conform the film.

Steps 8–9: Wrap Edges & Tuck

Use knifeless tape for panel cuts. Wrap film around edges and tuck behind trim pieces. Apply heat to edges for a secure bond. Overlap seams by at least ¼ inch.

Steps 10–11: Post-Heat & Cure

Post-heat the entire wrap to 180°F to activate the adhesive and lock in the film. Allow 24–48 hours of cure time before washing. Avoid automated car washes for 1 week.

Post-heating is the most important step most DIYers skip. It dramatically improves adhesion and longevity.

Step 1: Surface Preparation

Clean all dash surfaces with IPA or Rapid Prep. Remove any dust, oils, or protectants. Allow to dry completely. Warm the interior to 70°F+ for best adhesion.

Step 2: Apply Left to Right

Always apply pieces from left to right. This prevents air from getting trapped. Peel back only a small portion of the liner at a time as you work across the piece.

Step 3: Press & Smooth

Use the flat of your palm — not your thumb — to apply even pressure. For large pieces, use a squeegee. Use a hair dryer on low heat to help the adhesive bond to textured surfaces.

Step 4: Cure & Finish

Pop any large air bubbles with a pin and smooth out. Allow 48 hours of cure time before cleaning. Trim any excess with a sharp razor blade for a clean edge.

Do not use a heat gun — a hair dryer on low is sufficient. Excess heat can warp the vinyl overlay.

Step 1: Check Tint Laws

Window tint laws vary by state and vehicle type. Check your state's VLT (Visible Light Transmission) requirements before ordering. Rvinyl has a state-by-state tint law guide.

Steps 2–4: Prepare & Clean

Work in a clean, dust-free environment. Remove door panels if needed. Clean windows thoroughly with soapy water and a razor blade to remove all contamination. Dry with a lint-free cloth.

Steps 5–6: Cut & Apply

For bulk rolls: cut film 1 inch larger than the window on all sides. Spray window and film with slip solution (baby shampoo + water). Peel liner and apply film to inside of window.

Step 7: Squeegee & Heat Shrink

Squeegee water out from center to edges. For curved rear windows: use the wet method — apply heat gun to outside of window while squeegeeing from inside to shrink the film to the curve.

Heat shrinking is the key skill for rear windows. Work in sections, applying heat until the film lies flat before squeegeeing.

Step 8: Cure

Allow 3–5 days of cure time. Do not roll windows down during this period. Some haziness is normal and will clear as the adhesive cures.

Step 1: Disassembly

Remove fairings, tank covers, and panels for easier wrapping. Working on flat, removed panels is far easier than wrapping on the bike. Label each panel to track placement.

Steps 2–3: Clean & Cut

Clean all surfaces thoroughly. Motorcycle fairings often have wax and polish residue — use a strong degreaser. Cut vinyl with 2-inch margins on all sides.

Steps 4–6: Apply & Wrap

Apply to flat sections first. Use a heat gun generously on curves — motorcycle fairings have tight compound curves that require significant stretching. Use knifeless tape for clean cuts between panels.

Motorcycle wraps require more heat than car wraps due to tighter curves. Work slowly and use a wrap glove to protect your hands.

Step 7: Post-Heat & Reinstall

Post-heat all panels to 180°F to activate adhesive. Allow to cool before reinstalling. Reinstall panels on the motorcycle.

Step 1: Clean Thoroughly

Remove wheels for best access. Clean with wheel cleaner, then degreaser, then IPA. Brake dust and road grime will prevent adhesion. The squeaky finger test applies here too.

Steps 2–3: Measure & Apply

Measure each spoke individually — they may vary. Cut vinyl with 1-inch margins. Apply to the face of each spoke first, then wrap around the edges.

Steps 4–5: Heat & Trim

Use a heat gun generously to conform vinyl to the curved spoke profiles. Trim excess with a precision knife. Wrap edges behind spokes for a clean, seamless look.

Step 6: Post-Heat & Reinstall

Post-heat the entire wheel to activate adhesive. Allow to cool before reinstalling. Note: rim wrap vinyl is not rated for brake caliper heat — keep film away from the hub area.

Use cast vinyl for rim wraps — it conforms better to curves than calendered vinyl and is more durable.

Step 1: Surface Preparation

Calipers must be completely cool. Use a heavy-duty degreaser to remove brake dust, grease, and road contamination. Follow with IPA on a lint-free cloth. The surface must be spotless for adhesion.

Step 2: Measure & Cut

Measure the caliper face carefully. Cut vinyl with ½ inch margin on all sides. For complex caliper shapes, create a paper template first.

Steps 3–4: Apply & Squeegee

Peel liner and position film. Tack one edge first to establish alignment. Squeegee from center outward. Pay special attention to edges and any raised lettering on the caliper.

Step 5: Trim, Seal & Cure

Trim excess with a precision knife. Apply heat to seal edges. Post-heat the entire surface. Allow 24 hours to cure before driving.

Use heat-resistant vinyl specifically rated for caliper temperatures. Standard vinyl will bubble and peel from brake heat.